Taste of Hoi An Food Tour

Today we needed to set the alarm (gasp) as we had signed up for The Original Taste Of Hoi An Food Tour and they were picking us up at the hotel at 7:20 am. We were a group of six; Ken and I, Brian and Glynis (South African expats currently living in the San Francisco area) and Jenny and Chad from Australia. The tour was lead by a retired Auzzie, Neville, who had fell in love with Hoi An and moved here four years ago. From the hotel, we were driven to The Tan An Tiger Market where we were met by Neville's partner-in-crime, San who was going to show us around for a few hours before she returned us to Neville for final tastings and words of wisdom.

The food tasting included 43 items so we started eating pretty much immediately. First up was Sinh To Trai Cay, a tasty mixed fruit shake made up of dragon fruit, papaya, condensed milk and other fruits. Very tasty start to the day with lots of vitamins. Fortified, we followed San through the market that included a wide range of fruits, veggies, fish and fresh meats. Apparently Vietnamese folks shop twice a day; once for lunch and then for dinner so their food is always made with fresh ingredients.

Chickens trussed up as a temple offering

Holy mackerel

Limes, dragon fruit and oranges

More yummy fruit

There were lots of food options in the market. Most locals eat a breakfast that includes noodles out of their homes. The reason being that the broth is the star of the noodle dish and requires lots of time to develop the flavours so it's easier to buy than make. Our first dish in the market was Ban Xeo, sizzling crispy crepes wrapped around pork, shrimp and bean sprouts. I definitely want to have one of these again. At 5000 VND ($.30), a tasty snack.

We continued down the road and tried some interesting dishes including Xi Ma, black sesame seeds and water mixed with secret herbs. This dish, made forthe last eighty years by a man now 94 years old, looks a bit like tar. Undaunted, Ken and I gave it a try and it tasted la bit like tahini (sesame seed paste though not as bitter). It's supposed to have mystical health benefits as well so maybe it should be part of our daily routine.

Black gold?

Next was Vietnamese ice cream; chocolate, strawberry, coconut and red bull! Flavours. The cones were little so most folks had two. I can personally vouch for the silky chocolate and luscious coconut. At 5000 VND it's certainly a better value than the 150,000 VND that I paid for a scoop of Haagen Daaz in HCMC.

Ice cream vendor

We are starting to get a bit full and we are only on number seven!! Next is a small street vendor for some chicken noodle soup, Mi Ga. This was no Campbell's soup! Wow, the broth was fragrant with star anise, ginger and other secret ingredients, the wide noodles were freshly made and it was served with banana flowers, herbs and fresh lime to be dressed as you prefer. Yum, I can see why the locals eat this for breakfast every day. We also had a bit of Bahn Mit, a crunchy baguette stuffed with meat and vegetables. A virtual symphony of flavours.

Next we were off to the Laugh Cafe for a small feast washed down with local fresh beer. At $.15 a glass it could be a bit dangerous especially since it has the flavor of a good lager. We tried the local noodles, made from rice cooked three times including once with the water fom thousand year old eggs, in a dish called Cao Lau with pork, turmeric noodles and morning glory cooked with garlic. The morning glory (aka water spinach) fried with garlic was a simple but very fresh tasting dish. Some of the folks raved about the eggplant but it was a bit mushy for my taste. We had a second tasting plate there that included the white rose dumpling, a special treat only made by one family in Hoi An but served in all the restaurants here. This dumpling was conceived as a tribute to female emancipation. Ken really loved the fried rice paper with salsa. The Laugh Cafe is a special place. In addition to the fabulous food, it is a training school for kids from the countryside to learn the hospitality trade.

After the tasting of these delicacies, we hit the streets again stopping at a pharmacy along the way.

Down an alleyway we found a vegan restaurant serving tofu creations that were intended to taste like meat. We tried the faux beef and pork to mixed reviews. Folks here are required to not eat meat at times so this is their substitute.

San's time with us was coming to an end so we met up with Neville's on the second floor of another restaurant in Old Town where we were regaled with stories by our host and served a number of culinary delights including sweets, a great banana flower salad and other scrumptious dishes made by San, more noodles and some local fresh fruit. We also tried strong rice liquor and a Vietnamese Margarita. Three drinks and its not even noon - LOL!!

By now, we were all well beyond an elegant sufficiency so it was time to bid adieu to our host and find our way back to the hotel. If you're ever in Hoi An, this tour is a must at the beginning to help you navigate the culinary scene in Hoi An and spend a couple of hours with a most genial host.

On our way back to the hotel we found a laundress who would take care of our travel worn clothes fo 30,000 VND/kilo so we dropped off our dirty clothes and headed to the pool to relax. Not really much sun but a very relaxing spot to put your feet up and have a glass of ...

After a bit, we decided pedicures were in order. Ken is becoming a real princess and I have always been so we both enjoyed that experience. Bright pink lacquer for me but au natural for Ken.

We took the last shuttle to Old Town and then headed off for some retail therapy and dinner.