Tuesday, February 10, 2015
Yesterday, Ken and I decided to combine our morning "training" walk with some touristy things. We usually pass by or near Notre Dame Cathedral, the Post Office and the Reunification Palace on our morning jaunts and they are open fairly early in the morning so it seemed pretty doable.
Since we crashed early last night we were awake at crow piss (aka 6:30 am). Too early to get into our touristy spots so after a quick yogurt for breakfast we headed to the rooftop for a couple of hours of early sun and a coffee for Ken. Even that early the symphony of car and moped horns floats through the air. The natives always seem to be in a hurry.
When we left the hotel we stopped to pickup a croissant for Ken at our favourite expat market. We decided to take a different route to get more walking in before hitting the sights as it was still relatively early. After walking for a half hour or so, we took a look at the map and realized that we were "close" to the Jade Emporer Pagoda and decided to head there instead. I had the map which as many of you know is a recipe for disaster! We walked for what seemed like hours and, unbeknownst to us, roared right past it. On the map, it appeared to be larger than life and we expected to see it easily. Despite Ken asking repeatedly for directions, we ended up overshooting the mark by at least a mile. Eventually, we found someone who sent us back in the right direction. Even with the map, it was impossible to find until a lovely girl took pity on us and gave us directions for the two minute walk down a small alley. Let's just say, it didn't look as big as we had expected nor was it easy to find.
The first thing you see as you go through the gates is the outer courtyard. There were benches for quiet contemplation and urns with incense.
The compound includes a tortoise shelter though the water was really nasty so not sure they were that well taken care of.
Inside there were a wide variety of altars with a myriad of Buddhas, demon guards and other beautiful works or art with religious significance. One of the more interesting rooms was the women's room with rows of ceramic female figurines. There were many celebrants lighting incense and bringing gifts of flowers and fruit in anticipation of the new year. In one of the rooms there were two horses with bells at their necks. Two young girls were lighting incense and gave the bells a ring; doubtless a gesture intended to bring good luck.
As we exited the pagoda grounds, we spied a lady with cages of small live birds. For 20,000 dong ($1 USD) you could buy one to set it free for good luck. Always needing luck, I happily availed myself of the opportunity and set one lucky bird free. It was close to noon so we grabbed a cab back to a more familiar part of town not wanting to get lost twice in the same day. Lol.
The cathedral wasn't open until 3 pm so we headed to the General Post Office, a handsome and massive example of the French-colonial architecture in HCMC. The building is the bright yellowish orange of marigolds and cavernous inside. A great place to cool off, buy souvenirs, post cards, stamps and tickets to the Opera House. We did most of that all under the watchful eyes of Ho Chi Minh himself.
Time to grab a bite, we found a restaurant with a combined Vietnamese and North American menu so there was something for each of us. I had a bowl of vermicelli with grilled pork and spring rolls doused in a fragrant sauce. Ken opted for the egg and ham sandwich on a fabulous French roll.
We were both pleased with our choices and so fortified with our lunch, headed to the Reunification Palace. The Reunification Palace was the former home of the Presidents of Southern Vietnam and the site of the surrender of the South in 1975. There is a replica of the helicopter used by the President to escape before the fall of Saigon on the rooftop and the tanks and planes that lead to the defeat on the grounds. The inside of the building is firmly stuck in the 70's. Very kitschy and quite posh.
Thanks for sharing, while reading I can picture myself right there with you.
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